Lankford lacks curb appeal but serves big eats

By Allie Schaich     8/22/12 7:00pm

If I had not seen Lankford Grocery & Mar- ket featured on "The Food Network's" popu- lar show "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives," I most likely would not have stopped or even given this small store and its faded sign a second glance.

I made the journey out to Lankford Grocery in Midtown to see what the restaurant had to of- fer. When I arrived on a Sunday afternoon, the inside seating was completely full, so I sat down at one of the picnic tables outside and picked up a menu. The laid-back atmosphere and friendly wait staff only made the experience better. The restaurant also had a charming diner feel to it, complete with vintage sign decorations and red-and-blue-checkered tablecloths.

Lankford Grocery's menu is not large; it features breakfast specials, sandwiches, a plethora of burgers and the traditional sides (French fries, onion rings and tater tots). I was intrigued by its burger selection, which ranges from an old-fashioned cheeseburger to a burger crowned with freshly made macaroni and cheese. I selected the Red, White & Blue Burger, which features roasted red peppers, red onions, ranch and bleu cheese. In typical American fashion, I ordered a side of fries to go along with the burger.

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When my food arrived at the table, I was shocked at how large the portions were. In addition to a basket overflowing with fries, I received a burger that was about the size of my face. The burger was unlike any I had ever tasted. The meat was tender, had a little bit of a spicy flavor and was cooked medium just as I had requested. I tasted all the toppings indi- vidually, but the flavors also combined nicely. The taste of the bleu cheese was strong, but not too dominating. The peppers and onions gave the burger a little bit of a kick, but this was bal- anced out with the cool and tangy flavor of the ranch dressing. There was a perfect amount of each ingredient, even though the burger was so massive its contents were falling out. The bun was toasted to a crisp on the outside and soft in the middle, so it held the burger together well. In hindsight, I probably should not have ordered the fries on the side, but they were de- liciously soft and crisp nonetheless.

I would highly recommend Lankford Gro- cery to anyone who is feeling hungry and in the mood to try a hidden Houston treat. I will be sure to return to Lankford Grocery in the near future.

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