Irma's: tacos and inspiration

By Ellise Brooks     2/3/11 6:00pm

You don't understand what you're missing until you've tasted the home-cooked Mexican food of Irma's, especially if you aren't from Houston. Established in 1989, Irma's explains what the big deal is about Houston and Mexican/Tex-Mex food.After her husband's tragic death in a bar fight, Irma Martinez decided to build her own restaurant in the model of a true Mexican establishment to support her family. After 21 years, her culinary dreams have flourished into reality. While telling her story, she explains her success simply as, "If you want something badly enough, you'll work hard for it," saying she has and will continue to work hard to keep her restaurant running.

It has served everyone from warehouse workers to lawyers, and the walls are covered with words of gratitude and praise from past customers, celebrities or not. Rice's own Engineering Professor Richard Tapia is a long-standing friend and customer of Martinez, saying, "Irma has some of the best Mexican food in Houston."

Beware, there is no menu: The restaurant's fare changes every day, offering 16 new dishes daily. Irma's also is only open for breakfast and lunch on weekdays, staying open later only if there is an Astros game in town. So don't expect to catch dinner there unless you've arranged it for a large group of people (the restaurant occasionally makes exceptions for special parties) or you're a baseball fan.

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The homey feel of the building is perfect for people-watching and enjoying delicious salsa and chips while waiting for a wonderfully home-cooked main course coming from the kitchen. The restaurant has a vegetarian selection that is just as delicious as the regular options. Irma's specialties include tamales, enchiladas, fajitas and center-cut pork chops with ancho chili sauce, but one of the most famous trademarks of the restaurant is the fresh-squeezed lemonade. At first look, it does not look like lemonade at all - it has various bits of melons and other fruits floating in red liquid - but, from the first sip, it was the best lemonade I have ever tasted. The tortillas are freshly made in the kitchen; the fajita meat is tossed with onions, bell peppers and chili peppers for excellent flavor. The tamales have awe-inspiring flavor, and you can taste the dedication and love in every bite that is served.

In addition to the delicious food, the service is excellent. Because the food is freshly made after it is ordered, the wait time is a bit long, but the servers are very happy to get your order started as soon as you're ready and are delighted to supply chips, salsa and queso until your food is ready.

Not only is the service amazing, but the atmosphere, with all its quirky decorations, is conducive to good conversation and relaxation. Martinez still manages the kitchen and imparts words of inspiration and humor in between cooking and serving.

Despite the surplus of well-priced Mexican food joints in Houston, Irma's is definitely worth checking out. Whether you go with a friend, a significant other or an acquaintance who likes Mexican food, Irma's will fill you up - and comes with free stories of motivation. Get there early, because tables fill up quickly!

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